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3 stages in the life of a poppy

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

A purple poppy caught my attention. A change from all those red poppies we see everywhere. When I looked around there were a few in different stages of their lifecycle. I wanted to capture the delicate petals and a sense of the short time they flower. So here are three images that show 3 stages in the life of a poppy.

Opening

Prior to open the flower, all enclosed in green, swings upwards in a smooth curve. You can see 2 on their way up in this image. Here the petals are opening and this the first of the 3 stages in the life of a poppy.

In bloom

In the second image I wanted to capture the delicateness of the petals and the bright colour. There are only 4 petals. In this image I focused on the edge of the nearest petal. as the focal length is short the next 2 perpendicular petals are gently blurred. The final fourth parallel petal is almost lost. The details on the petal show the creases in the delicate petal as it unfolds. Origami nd laundry come to mind.

Seed distribution

Once the petals are gone the beauty of a poppy is not over. The next task is to distribute the seeds for the next generation. The final image of the 3 stages in the life of a poppy shows part of the reproductive system. The Stamen and Anthers (the home of the pollen and male part of the plant), have all fallen away with the petals after pollination. The Style and Stigma sit on the the melon like ovary which is the main part of the image. These three items together form the pistil.

All those lovely shades of green make a very calming image.

Technique

These photos were all taken using a 100mm macro lens, f/4.5 using ISO100 at 1/200s.

I have other posts about poppies and flowers, for example Catch them while you can about red poppy fields. I also have a gallery Flowers and Plants.

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store or DepositPhotos store or the link in the menu.

Other posts that may interest you are:

Where to purchase my work

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store or directly via the menu, below.


Photo Merging to make a panorama

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

Armed with my camera and tripod and a westerly facing beach I decided to capture a sunset. A fairly quiet sea, some interesting clouds and some small boats in the bay made for an interesting composition. The idea was to use photo stitching to make a panorama. Photo merging, a nice feature of apps, takes overlapping photographs and builds a single image from all those selected. Photo Merging to make a panorama stitches together overlapping photos.

Camera setup

I set the camera up with a wide, 18mm focal length, an ISO of 100 to reduce any noise from the pictures. Noise doesn’t really show up on the small screen of the camera but will be visible back at home on the PC screen. It shows up as a sprinkling of tiny dots of varied colours. As its a sunset it is naturally dark, so set a longish exposure. I took these at 1/30s. Longer exposures would potentially lead to issues with the boats moving or waves. Shorter exposures could prove incompatible with an ISO of 100.

The steps

To stitch together photos, the software needs a good overlap for each photo. Let’s say 2/3s as a minimum. They also need to be moving across the same horizontal line. To do this you need to have reference points. For a sunset the horizon and the sun are obvious candidates. Remembering not to look at the bright sun which will damage your eyes and camera. On the screen of the camera make sure the grid is switched on on the screen. If there is a level on the screen the tripod or the camera use this to help ensure the sequence of photos are on the same level.

The photos

So here are the series of photos I took. You can see the sun creeps gradually across the image from right to left.

Post session editing

I used Adobe Lightroom to stitch them together and verify the horizontal. Under the Photo menu is the command “Photo Merge”. It offers 3 options: HDR, Panorama, and HDR Panorama. HDR is for creating High Dynamic Range images, which have more exposures combined together into one image. It has become popular on recent TVs. But that is not what we need. we need the 2nd option : Panorama. Select the photographs, with control or shift, pressed if needed and use the Photo Merging to make a panorama.

The very observant of you will notice that I also used the Photoshop healing brush to remove the streetlamp towards the right side which I felt added nothing to the composition. Especially as they are no longer operational anyway in an attempt to reduce light pollution.

This technique can be used rather than grabbing your smartphone and spinning around. It will give you bigger and better images. It can also be used vertically.

You can see other examples on my landscape page.

These photographs were taken at the end of the golden hour. What is that? Read more.

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store or via the link in the menu or directly below.


Using a zoom lens

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

A Summer morning gave me another chance to grab my versatile 18-135 mm f/3,5-5,6 zoom lens and Canon DSLR show you the possibilities when using a zoom lens. The weather was bright sunshine which presents some issues but makes a walk in the garden very enjoyable. The flowers, leaves, insects, the reflections on the pond were the ideal environment to get great photos and a source of inspiration. In this post I just want to show you the impact of using a zoom lens on the composition of the image.

The context

The above panorama shows the context. There is a path that goes all the way around the pond, with bridges at both ends. The view is particularly captivating from the bridges. But it is also beautiful from all sides. This means that people are often in the frame and can be a distraction from the natural beauty. Using a zoom lens, and patience, will allow you to capture the images when there are few or no people in the frame.

Above you can see people on the bridge and on the right hand side. The person in red, under the weeping willow tree, is the most bothersome as red really catches your attention.

First, whenever possible, set the ISO on your camera to 100, as I did here. This will reduce any potential for noise in the final image. Noise being a grainy aspect to the photograph.

Three examples

Here are 3 photographs from the bridge at the eastern bridge. They were taken with focal lengths set to 22mm, 56mm and 76mm.

If we compare these to the panorama we can see that the higher the focal length is the less we can appreciate the length of the pond. Distances are compressed. This is where the artist in you will decide the right balance between keeping the depth of field in the image, zooming to remove distractions, and focusing on details.

Clearly if the bridge is the subject of the photo the more you zoom the more of the bridge you will see. It is hardly visible at 22mm. But if you are taking a photo of a water lily pond, then 22mm really shows the pond in its surroundings.

My favourite here is the 56mm. Why, because it takes the gentlemen on the right out of the frame, it keeps the blue sky, the impression of a pond. The reflection on the waters surface of the sky is less overpowering.

Zooming even more

Changing the objective on my camera to allow me to zoom to 250mm allows me to focus on individual items in and around the pond. Here is a of 2 while lilies amongst their leaves. There are several insects in and around the flowers. If you look carefully there is a turquoise dragon fly just a short distance above the left lily.

I did another post on zooming earlier in the year which you can find here.

You can see more flowers from this garden in my flowers gallery, https://avenuedesimages.com/flowers-and-plants/

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store or directly below. There are other landscape photos here.


Capturing birds in flight

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 4 minutes

My afternoon introduction to capturing birds in flight tool place at the Étang de la Galiotte. This translates to Galiotte Pond. When you visit you will see that is an understated way of describing a large mass of water in Carrières-sous-Poissy. Capturing birds in flight professionally requires specialized equipment. I need to verify that I am interested enough to make that investment. So with my existing equipment I see about capturing birds in flight.

You can see from the map the lake is quite large. The town of Carrières-sous-Poissy, which translates to Quarries under Poissy, gives a good clue to the origin of the Étang de la Galiotte. The Paris region is made up of layers of sand, limestone, mixed with various amounts of clay. Being by the river Seine transport of the quarried sand was easy. Subsequently the Étang de la Galiotte was filled with river water to make a lake.

The lake is a major feature of the new park du peuple de l’herbe which covers 113 hectares.

Today, the lake and surrounding park are the host of birds, fish and people. There is a small island in the centre to help birds nest and breed. Making it a good site for capturing birds in flight. This protected natural space hosts a village of about 30 floating homes on the southern shore of the lake. There is an active residents association.

The Yvelines region published a detailed study, in French, about steps taken to avoid the risks associated to natural disasters in the region linked to the river, the geology and other potential threats.

Now to my visit. What did I see and how did the afternoon go?

Getting There

First of all if you arrive from Paris take to the train or RER to Poissy. You can walk from the train station at Poissy. It’s a fairly level walk over the main road bridge. It will take 20 minutes, about 1.5km. If you arrive by car, then I suggest you park in the Parking du parc du peuple de l’herbe. There are several bus services which use the road bridge to get to the Poissy station. The town of Poissy has also a project to build a new footbridge (site in French) linking the station to the park.

For the less nimble on their feet, I would recommend sticking to the path that run along the river Seine, rather than those by the lake which end up as a narrow track in the woods.

Bright sunshine and water

Bright sunshine can make photography complicated. On the good side everything is brightly lit, but with that comes shadows. And the contrast can be hard to manage. Add to that water, and to a slightly lesser degree the bright blue sky, and you have bright reflections and dispersed light from the sky and water. This can make the blue sky appear grey, the beautiful water dull and opaque.

Polarization

The solution to this is a polarizing filter. You may will be familiar with polarizing sun glasses. The same filter on your objective will filter out light which is dispersed in all directions. It will leave nicely aligned light rays. The advantage that the filter has over sunglasses is that you can spin the filter to choose exactly which direction the light rays should be. This allows you to choose the blue colour for your sky and optimize the view of the water so you can see the fish etc. Unfortunately my filter was not with me on this trip.

Freezing motion

So I chose to focus on the bird-life. In June the young ducks and geese still look cute and fluffy. They become a natural subject for cute photos. There are also plenty of terns here. They fly quickly over the water’s surface before diving into the water to capture fish. And the fish don’t have much chance as they are so fast. This speed also makes them difficult to photograph.

Some starting steps

Time needed: 30 minutes

Capturing flying birds

  1. Before you go

    Empty the memory card, and take the fastest card you have. It might be worth checking what file types you are storing. In general I write RAW and JPEG files to the card. Doing this means writing takes longer and uses more space. You could just save high quality JPEG for this session.

  2. Select objective

    Use a zoom, I would say at least 135mm, preferably 210mm, or more

  3. Use auto-focus

    Set the auto focus to AI servo. You will not be able to focus manually on the fast moving birds, use the camera’s intelligence o track them in flight

  4. Choose the ISO setting

    Consider setting the ISO to 100, or 200, depending on the aperture of your objective. The smaller the aperture the less light will be collected and therefore a higher ISO can help.

  5. Set speed

    In order to freeze the movement of a bird, or anything moving rapidly, set the speed to a maximum of 1/800s

  6. Review and modify

    After your first series of photos review and adjust the settings. Too dark check the ISO and aperture. Blurred reduce the speed.

  7. Repeat

    There will be many missed shots so just keep going

SD Card speeds

There are many sizes of SD cards, but I would suggest 32GB or 64GB. Which gives plenty of room and not a totally unmanageable volumes of photos to sort through when you get home. When the technology was launched it supported a 12.5 MB/s speed. At this speed it would take 2 seconds to write a typical RAW image. Making continuous shooting for a bird in flight impossible. The technology now supports up to 3940MB/s however not all cameras support such speeds, nor do they need them. There are 3 common ways of describing the speed that the card can transfer data.

Look for card with the U3 class. These can support up to 30 MB/s which id ample for video and photo recording. There is more information on the classes on the SD card Association website.

Good luck capturing birds in flight. If you further inspiration try this external website.

Return visit

It’s a great park and I went back in the winter. You can read about it here.

I have other posts about my visits along the River Seine, for example Spring walk along the Seine

Purchase my art

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store the link in the menu.

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Catch them while you can

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

Poppies flower for a short time, you need to catch them while you can. They are short-lived perennial plants and have brightly coloured flowers. The petals appear crumpled and very fine. Spreading out as they straighten. There are many species and many colours. The one I see most, is the 4 petaled red poppy. It grows in and around farmer’s fields of wheat, corn and barley. I expect it’s the Papaver rhoeas, or common poppy I see most. I think it’s this one because of the name and its description. It has 4 red petals. The other famous poppy is the Papaver somniferum, commonly known as the opium poppy. This one I never see. The common poppy will flower from late spring to early summer but each flower doesn’t last long so catch them while you can.

It’s hard to imagine how soldiers in the battlefields of the first world war would look upon such a field of poppies. But the poppy fields of Belgium became a symbol of the conflict and feature in a poem from the front line – In Flanders Fields by John McCrae.

Remembrance

The poppy maintains that link today as the symbol of remembrance for the Commonwealth Remembrance Day. This is held annually on November 11th. It marks the end of First World War hostilities. In the UK the date is an important fund raising event for veterans and organised by the The Royal British Legion. The poppy is not the only flower associated with the end of World War 1. In France it is the cornflower, which is often found growing next to poppies.

Follow this link if you want to see more of my photographs of Flowers and Plants. There is also another blog post showing 3 stages in the life of a poppy flower.

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store or directly below. There are other landscape photos here.

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Low light needs a tripod and patience

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 3 minutes

Low light can bring a great atmosphere to any photo. However, low light needs a tripod and patience if you are to capture the subjects at their best. A tripod because you are going to be taking long exposure photographs and without it there will be movement. The slightest movement will lead to blur. Patience because those long exposures may mean people and pets keep popping into frame at the wrong moment spoiling the perfect shot.

Low light occasions easily present themselves at dusk and dawn and indoors. I am going to a local church to capture some of the atmosphere.

What equipment?

As I said, low light needs a tripod and patience. I have a small Rollei tripod. Some will say I am a bit short of patience but we’ll make do. Traveling light means I will take my Canon and 50mm objective. Why not a zoom you may ask? Really, I choose my 50mm because it has has a large f/1.8 aperture so it can let what little light there is into the camera body. It’s also a great objective for capturing a variety of subjects.

Making sure there was nothing else was happening in the church, and that we had permission, I was allocated 2 hours with the objective of 10 or so images.

The process

Initially take a slow walk around the building looking at everything. Focus on the lighting and shadows. You might not be able to get high up, check out where any choir or organ is situated. But certainly low down angles can give interesting images. If you have seen some of my photos of trees you will know I like looking up, for example. Contrasting shades and colours are good subjects. This can come from lights, or even better the sun. I was fortunate to have sun shining through stained glass windows which brings colour to objects which wouldn’t normally be coloured. Candles are also a source of light but the flames do move so can be tricky on long exposures or when creating an HDR, or bracketed, image.

After reviewing the site, set the ISO to 100. Why? we don’t want the camera software doing clever compensation for the lack of light and increasing the sensor sensitivity leading to noisy pictures. Although I have heard that you can reduce the noise, by merging several images. Not something I have tested yet but when I do I’ll add a link here. Because we have our tripod we can extending the exposure time to avoid any issues . Finally, set the settings to manual or AV, Aperture priority, f/1.8 and off we go.

The results

I wanted to share the images capturing the architecture, the candles and the sunlight. They show that low light needs a tripod and patience. Whether it be waiting for the visitors to move away from the seating, the walkways or the pillars. or coming back to the same chair later in the visit as the sun made its way round to add colour to plan straw chairs.

Finally, if you are out and have no equipment or just out of patience, today’s cameras can do a good job. For example the final candle above. The downside is that it’s a little noisy.

Other posts that you may like

If you are interested in lighting, I have some other photos on the lighting page.

There is also a blog post on :

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store, via the link in the menu or directly below.


Walk along the Seine from the river Oise

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

Last week I walked along the river Seine towards Paris, starting in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine. Walking the in the other direction, towards the sea, Conflans is home to the confluence of the rivers Seine and Oise. So today I decided to walk along the Seine from the river Oise. There are few parking spaces at the confluence of the two rivers.

Both rivers have a path so you have to choose, today I decided to take a short walk along the Seine. The river Seine is a major transportation route and large barges are almost always moored in Conflans. Important road and rail links are also a feature of the town. Alongside the river, the landscape and nature I wanted to capture the transportation links.

The cycle bridge is part of the itinerary from Paris to London. The segment from Maisons-Laffitte to Chaussy, some 48.71km. The rail bridge is part of the RER A line running from Cergy le Haut to Paris and in Conflans fin d’Oise the station also serves the railway line from Paris St Lazare to Mantes la Jolie. From the footbridge you have a lovely view towards the historic town centre of Conflans Sinte-Honorine. You can also witness local birds looking for a meal.

HDR photos to bring out hidden features

I wanted to compare a colour photo of the underside of the rail bridge with a black and white version. Industrial sites lend themselves well to black and white images. I also wanted to capture the clouds and the metal structure. This called for a high dynamic range. Something that many cameras offer today. It builds a single image out of several, often 3, images of the same object. Each image is taken with different exposure settings to capture different lighting and details.

I also took a walk this spring around Villennes sur Seine, which is just a short distance away, on the way to the sea!

Going the other way towards Paris, I have a post about Urban Photography at La Défense.

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store, via the link in the menu or directly below.


Spring walk along the Seine

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

Spring is having a slow start this year. So when I took a spring walk along the Seine at the Quai de Gaillon, in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine there was still a wintery look to the scenery. The trees were budding and the mistletoe was still clearly visible.

I was surprised to see a snail cross my path.

The walk down to the river seine banks is relatively steep. There are several routes down from the town to the riverside. This is the rue de la Fossé du Moulin. It is for the most part inaccessible to vehicles.

But the peace and quiet of an early morning walk along the banks of the river Seine is worth it. It was a great source of inspiration for the impressionists. Camille Pissarro did some painting there in the 1870s for example this one. This was probably painted in the summer nearby, rather than during a Spring walk along the Seine at Quai de Gaillon.

Here you can see mistletoe clearly in the tress on the far side of the river Seine.

There are also many areas to stop, relax, exercise. There is no doubt in my mind, in the summer it will be busier. Get there early if you want to avoid the weekend crowds.

Next week I will explore some other area of the town. The confluence of the river Oise and River Seine.

I also took a walk this spring around Villennes sur Seine, which is just a short distance away, on the way to the sea!

I have other posts about my visits along the River Seine, for example Capturing birds in flight, or going the other way towards Paris, I have a post about Urban Photography at La Défense.

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store, via the link in the menu or directly below.


A spring afternoon walk around Villennes

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: < 1 minute

A cool spring afternoon was the ideal opportunity to take a walk in the park. Walk around the park and capture the quiet atmosphere at the start of lockdown. New year’s growth is just appearing. As a result; it is not swamped by the profuse summer leaves and flowers.

The small Paris suburb of Villennes-sur-Seine, in Yvelines, France has some wonderful architecture and parks. So I stayed in the centre of town and visit the Parc du Docteur Fauvel, the town hall and its garden and the river Seine. The river runs very close to town here. This spring afternoon walk around Villennes was in April.

These were taken on my Canon camera with either my 50mm or 18-135mm lens. I would recommend a Spring afternoon walk around Villennes as it shows you don’t have to be far from the city of Paris to be in lovely countryside. It’s a short train ride from St Lazare station. When you get off the train I suggest you start by appreciating the architecture of the old station building. However, If you come by car, parking in the town centre is limited and short stay. The town is not far from the A13 and A14 autoroutes.

My next walk will be a little upstream on the river Seine at Conflans-Sainte-Honorine

Follow this link if you want to see more of my photographs of Flowers and Plants

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store, via the link in the menu or directly below.


The effect of shutter speeds

Posted on by SteveH
Estimated Reading Time: 2 minutes

The effect of shutter speeds on the final picture is very important. The shutter speed , or exposure time, determines how long light falls on to the image sensor or film. It is measured in fractions of seconds for most photographs. The image sensor, or film, is very sensitive to light. Typically you see the time expressed as 1/125 sec. 1 slot of 125 equal slots of one second. As you extend the duration, the number will get smaller, A duration of 5 slots of 125 could be expressed as 5/125s, but you would see it as 1/25s. As with many features of a camera shutter speed is impacted by other settings. Most importantly the ISO. ISO is a definition of the sensitivity of the film or sensor. The higher the number the more sensitive the sensor is.

The brightness of a picture still depend on the light captured and this depends on 2 factors the speed and ISO. They are balanced like a seesaw. If you increase one you can reduce the other.

Of course the aperture, the size of the hole letting light in also has an impact.

These 2 photographs show the same waterfall at 1/10 second and 1/1000 sec. showing the blurred movement of the water or droplets frozen in time.

Let’s get back to the effect of shutter speeds. They are most useful when considering movement. This movement can come from the subject being photographed. In my examples above – the water. But is also can come from you as you move ever so slightly when pressing the button or wobble on a precarious cliff edge, (please don’t!).

The movement gives the image blur as the light from specific point of water, bird, car etc moves and is captured in more than one position. So the slower the shutter speed the more blur. If we want to capture something moving we can have 2 objectives to either:

  1. Capture the subject of the photo as if it was still, so that the light from the subject always falls on the same part of the sensor. This can be done by moving the camera in parallel with the object, Which is not easy. Or it can be done by having a short shutter speed so the light enters the camera before the object has had a chance to move. However the background will appear blurred as we are moving.
  2. Capture the subject to show the movement, by intentionally allowing some blur. To do this we have a longer exposure time, slower shutter speed. So the light moves across the sensor creating blur in the subject; often against a background that hasn’t moved.

Some of my photos are available for purchase on my Adobe Stock store or directly below.


Other landscape photographs can be found here. You can see more waterfalls here and a post about long exposure tips.